The ‘96 production year was a tough one for Corvette sales. The fast-approaching C5 was on the horizon-threatening to steal potential buyers of ‘96 Corvettes who were coiled, ready to jump on the all-new ‘97 Corvettes as soon as they became available. Chevrolet knew it needed something to tickle the purse strings of Corvette shoppers and put a ‘96 on their must-have list. Not surprisingly, they went to the root of Corvette fanaticism: performance!

Photo Gallery: 1996 Chevrolet Corvette LT4 Grand Sports - Corvette Fever Magazine

Flashy paint aside, nothing about Ryan Custodio’s and Cory Gallus’ Corvettes seemed too out of the ordinary as the cars sat waiting their turn for a spin on the dyno at a show last summer. A peek through the windows revealed discrete six-point rollcages, but no other modifications. Things looked to be mostly stock under the aftermarket hoods, except for the nitrous setup on Ryan’s car, which also wore a set of CCW wheels. No big deal.

Photo Gallery: E85 Ethanol 1998 Chevrolet Corvette - Corn-Fed Sleepers - Corvette Fever Magazine

When you see a Corvette that’s represented as “restored,” do you ask yourself if that restoration was back to the way the car was built by GM, or if there were any “improvements” or equipment upgrades included in the project.

Photo Gallery: 1966 Chevrolet Corvette Stingray - Same As It Ever Was - Corvette Fever Magazine

Do you believe in second chances? Robert McNerney does. A few years back, he went to the Atlantic City Classic Car Auction in hopes of finding a C1 that he could buy as a weekend driver and occasional show car. “I was looking at ’58s and ’59s, but when I saw this car, the color grabbed my eye right away,” he says from his Mahwah, New Jersey, home. “And the condition-it was impeccable.”

Photo Gallery: 1961 Chevrolet Corvette - Corvette Fever Magazine

Threaded fasteners literally keep your Corvette together. Without these little wonders, the engine would just be a pile of metal components, your suspension wouldn’t stay on, and so on. There’s so much to discuss that this edition of Garage Talk is Part 1 of 2 parts so we don’t gloss over any of the important stuff. That being said, let’s not screw around and get right down to the nuts and bolts of it all.

Photo Gallery: Stainless Steel Hex Head Cap Screws - Garage Talk - Corvette Fever Magazine

Welcome to the fourth of six total installments chronicling the assembling of our old “carny” Corvette into the ultimate C2 Vette Rod. Last month, the crew at Corvette Restoration AZ put the finishing touches on the paint and bodywork, and installed the A/C and all-new wiring harnesses. In this issue, we will install our badass 393 stroker, a brand-new Tremec 5-speed, and a twin-fan radiator setup. Before we continue with the build, here are the remaining basic elements of the Timber Wolf C2:
* Chassis, Suspension, Brakes, and Rearend Install
* Interior and Stereo Install, Wrap-Up, and Vehicle Drive Experience

Photo Gallery: Chevrolet Corvette Stingray - The Timber Wolf C2 Gets Fired Up - Project Build - Corvette Fever Magazine

Ride Worth Printing?
Readers Rides
9036 Brittany Way
Tampa, Fl 33619
corvettefever.readersrides@sourceinterlink.com

Photo Gallery: Chevrolet Corvette Readers Rides - Your Ride - Corvette Fever Magazine

It’s the jewelry on your car. Certainly, replacing the old emblems onyour Corvette can make a big difference in how it looks. Moreimportantly, old and worn emblems and badges make your Corvette look alot older and mistreated.

Photo Gallery: C4 Emblem Install

Valve covers are the engine’s topping, and a shiny clean set tells theworld a quality, high-performance engine resides in your enginecompartment. For owners of C4 (’84-’96) Corvettes, valve covers areoften eyesores. Exposed to high underhood temperatures, they frequentlyshed their outer coverings or, worse yet, part of the coverings leavinga blotchy, ugly, black undercoating. The result of this erosion is notgood.

Photo Gallery: How to Restore Corvette Valve Covers

If you want to perform engine modifications to your C5 Corvette beyond installing a different airbox or some exhaust system modifications, the engine will need to be removed. But pulling the engine on the C5 is a little different than what most enthusiasts are used to doing. That’s because the best way to do it is to lift the body off the engine, torque tube, transmission, and front and rear suspension units that make up the “spine” of the C5 Corvette.

Photo Gallery: Removing The Engine From A C5 Corvette - Corvette Fever Magazine

If the glovebox door on every ‘78-’82 Corvette you’ve seen is loose, don’t fear-every ‘78-’82 that comes to my shop has a loose glovebox door latch.

Photo Gallery: Corvette Glovebox Door Repair - A Guide For ‘78-’82 Corvettes - Corvette Fever Magazine

Want stronger acceleration from your Corvette? Who doesn’t! The traditional prescription to modify any car is by adding horsepower, stickier tires, and, perhaps, more favorable gearing. But there is another path to faster acceleration, and it’s cheap by comparison. It’s learning to drive the car better, by adopting optimal driver techniques that can extract all the performance Chevy has already built into your car.

This is part one of a Corvette Fever special three-part series focusing on driving techniques for maximum acceleration in a six-speed Corvette. John Armstrong, well known as “Ranger” on the Corvette Forum and other Internet fast-driving communities, has set quarter-mile records in three different Z06s. And last fall in his ‘06 Z06, he set the all-time record for stock Corvettes on drag radial tires at 10.85 at 129.50 mph. He’s also run 11.24/127.03 on the stock run-flat tires, five-tenths of a second under the Chevy specification for the Z06-that equates to about a six car-length improvement.

In part one, we have asked John to share with Corvette Fever readers his background driving Corvettes. In part two, he will describe his specific techniques for achieving maximum acceleration. Part three, hopefully, will be a shootout featuring John driving a stock C6 Z06 against some legendary Corvettes set up for the dragstrip. This last segment is still in the planning stages at this printing so keep your fingers crossed.

John shares,My life changed for the better back in 1960 when someone at Williams Chevrolet in Milford, Ohio, neglected to lock a door on a newly arrived Corvette. The car was white and hypnotically beautiful in the moonlight. I dropped the kickstand on my bicycle, tried the driver’s door, squealed yippee when it opened, and climbed in. I was only 14 years old, but I spent a long time that night shifting through the gears, clutch in, clutch out-1-2, 2-3, 3-4, and then repeated the process, over and over. I shifted until my clutch leg got tired, rested, and did it all over again. From that day on, I knew Corvettes were in my future.

The Corvette dream became a reality as graduation from West Point approached, and I bought my first car. My choice was a new ‘68 Corvette convertible with the 427/435hp engine, four-speed transmission, and 3.70 rearend. It was among the fastest production cars of the day. That summer I drove the ‘68 427 on my first ten passes at the dragstrip, old Edgewater near Cincinnati. My best runs, all stock including the tires, were 13.4-13.5 seconds e.t. at a trap speed of 109 mph.

The L71 Corvette demanded finesse with the clutch and throttle because its narrow tires were easy to blow away on launch and shifts. I learned to focus on traction to avoid losing match races with the 427 Fords and the Hemi Dodges I encountered on the street. I also experienced the perils of driver error, trashing one transmission by a missed shift. The root cause: wearing slick, leather-soled shoes while hammering through the gears. Fortunately for me, Chevy covered replacement of that M21 transmission. that incident remains my only driver-induced breakage in a Corvette.

On departing to fight in the Vietnam war, I left the Corvette for my mother to sell. Turned out she sold it to Roger Penske, a legendary racer even then. He flew into town, inspected and testdrove my car, wrote mom a check for the asking price, and then drove that Corvette away . . . all in 20 minutes. Penske moved fast.

Thirty-three years later, my interest in drag racing was rekindled quite accidentally. In the spring of 2001, while on a Sunday solo cruise in my Z06 (stock except for a cold-air intake), I happened by a Maryland dragstrip called Capitol Raceway. In a fateful, spur-of-the-moment decision, I turned in the gate and went through technical inspection successfully. I just had to promise the inspector I’d scrounge up a helmet the rules required.

Decades had gone by since my last pass down the 1320 and apprehension weighed heavily on my mind. Would I remember what to do? But that concern was trumped by my desire to see if an ordinary owner could match Chevy’s ‘01 Z06 quarter-mile specification of 12.6 at 114 mph. After getting a quick brief on staging procedures from an experienced driver and borrowing his helmet, I staged the Z06. First pass was 12.53 at 116.24 mph. Then four more, all but one beating the Z06 spec. My best run that day was 12.47 at 117.39 mph. I was pumped.

It was particularly reassuring that lessons I’d learned in the ‘68 427 were still embedded in my instincts and muscle memory, and they remained relevant. Traction was still crucial; the clutch and throttle still required finesse; and fast, precise shifts at the right rpm remained keys to the e.t. And this time I was wearing rubber-soled shoes with a good grip.

The results of my belated return to the dragstrip presented an opportunity. I might be the right guy to find out how quick and fast a Z06 could be. I just needed to optimize my driving while keeping the car unchanged. After mulling it over a few days, the perceived opportunity became the quest.

A committed, rigorous engineering approach was needed to identify the optimal techniques for absolute best acceleration. What I lacked in traditional on-board data acquisition hardware and the support of a professional team, I had to make up for in life experience. That included an engineering degree, 25 years of analytical and program management experience in the intelligence services, and six years running a software company. My physical fitness would help, too.

With the goal now set, my attention turned to making passes at my local strip, building a comprehensive logbook, and learning from the performance data I collected. Over the next nine months, I accumulated about 100 passes in that first Z06, refining techniques, grooving my launch and shift skills, and chipping away at the e.t. Still on stock tires, the progression was 12.42, 12.35, 12.29, and then 12.14. Along the way, I learned to ignore the car in the other lane and just run my own pass. For my purposes, bracket racing would be a distraction.

On the final day of the ‘01 racing season, I mounted my first pair of drag radial (DR) tires on the car and headed for Capitol Raceway. I got some badly needed last-minute coaching on the burnout procedure for heating the DRs. I then cranked out an 11.94 at 116.65-mph pass and received the coveted 11-second timeslip on literally my last pass of the season. That 11.94 run remains the record for an ‘01 Z06 with just a cold-air intake and drag radials.

Six months later, I made the transition to an ‘02 Z06 with its 405hp motor and a Chevy quarter-mile spec of 12.4 at 116 mph. My first day at the drags, with 515 miles on the odometer and still on paper tags, the car ran a 12.16 at 116.47 mph, stock on the stock tires. Seventeen months and 200 passes later, it ran 11.81 at 117.26 mph, the record at the time, though later eclipsed by 0.03 seconds by another driver.

I campaigned the car at three different tracks most weekends during the fall of 2002 with the car sporting just a cold-air intake and drag radials. My driving improved as I continued to wring wastage from my techniques. And my e.t.’s continued to drop: 11.82, 11.72, 11.68, 11.61, and, finally, 11.55 at 117.69 mph. This latter pass is on video and remains the best run I’ve ever driven. the elusive perfect pass was made with 363 rear-wheel horsepower in average weather conditions.

I invested another 150 passes in that car and only eked out three more hundredths. But the additional experience brought strong consistency to my driving. On the final day of my ‘04 season at Atco Raceway, I ran four passes within five one-hundredths of a second, the best being 11.53 at 119.79 mph. The previous week at Capitol, I set what remains the record for a stock ‘02-and-later Z06 with a cold-air intake and drag radials: 11.52 at 120.21 mph. Records are made to be broken, and someone will break that one someday. Hopefully, it will be captured on video because I’ll want to see it.

As an outgrowth of this quest, I have continued to write and post acceleration technique guidance on several Internet sites catering to driving enthusiasts, particularly the Corvette Forum. My body of writing has helped other owners leverage the learning curve I’ve already ridden. Not surprisingly I guess, these tutorials spawned new demands on my time to answer questions from around the country and overseas. It became clear that thousands of Corvette owners want to improve their acceleration skills. Their positive feedback to my writing reinforced my commitment to the quest.

In early 2006, I transitioned to the 427ci, 505hp C6 Z06 with its Chevy quarter-mile spec of 11.7 at 125 mph. As everyone knows by now, the car lives up to its billing as the fastest production vehicle GM has ever sold, at least so far. The C6 Z06 is a more difficult car to drive than its C5 counterpart. There are three major challenges a new owner must overcome. First, the C6Z’s extra 100 hp demands added finesse, lest the tires spin excessively on launch and shifts. Second, the LS7 clutch is simply intolerant of an aggressive launch. Even slight slipping of the clutch on a 3,000-rpm launch will glaze the clutch and hang the clutch pedal midway up. This forces an aborted run and parking to cool down the clutch. Third, the LS7 engine management computer (ECU/PCM) features a devilishly clever function called Torque Management (TM) that reduces engine power to protect the drivetrain under certain conditions involving strong acceleration. A driver can really feel that momentary power loss when the TM is invoked. These three changes combine to make the C6Z a difficult car to drive well at the limit.

With that as background, the techniques I’d honed through 500 passes in C5Zs needed revision when I hit the track in the C6Z. My first day at Maryland International Raceway, running stock on drag radials, my new Z06 hung the clutch pedal on its first launch. I cooled the clutch down and adjusted my launch procedures. On the fourth pass, I ran an 11.31 at 126.92 mph. The next day at Capitol, the progression was 11.38, 11.36, 11.28, and 11.20. I was disappointed. The 11.20 was only three-tenths of a second faster than I’d run in the ‘02 Z06 with 100 less horsepower. It was obvious I had some learning to do.

Unless the driver of any traction-limited, manual-tranny car is told the optimal driving techniques, he generally will need at least 30-50 passes to discover them independently. By pass number 37 in the C6Z, I had dropped the stock-tire e.t. to 11.24 at 127.03. But bedeviled by the finicky LS7 clutch and Torque Management, I’d hit a plateau at 11.20 on the drag radials.

My remediation effort involved ten pure R&D passes focused on launch techniques and different tire combinations. The problem was confined to my launch and the 1-2 shift, the first 200 feet of the 1320. The rest of the pass was very consistent and fast enough to support dropping into the 10-second range. This methodical approach yielded the adjustments I needed.

My subsequent passes were: 11.16, 11.12, 11.10, 11.08, 11.06, 11.03, and finally, on my 52nd pass in the car, a 10.85 at 129.50. This latter pass is the all-time record for a stock Corvette on drag radials. And it was not perfectly driven. The one driver error was an early 2-3 shift, 300 rpm short of target. What would be the outcome of the elusive perfect pass in a stock C6Z on drag radials? My estimate is the high 10.7s.

I close by highlighting an unfortunate consequence of running fast times in a stock C6Z. It puts the driver in violation of NHRA and IHRA safety rules that require a rollbar on cars running quicker than 11.50. Although track officials generally have some latitude, they frequently “boot” a driver for the day for running two passes under 11.50. Repeated “bootings” can lead to a permanent ban from a particular track, as I’ve learned the hard way.

Some “experts” advise biting the bullet and installing the rollbar in a stock Z06. But for daily-driven cars that would mean the drivers and passengers would need to wear helmets on the street to protect their heads from hitting the rollbar tubing in the event of an accident. By the experts’ logic, safety at the track should take priority over safety on the street. That seems an imprudent trade-off.

I mention this issue because it will confront more Corvette owners as Chevy continues to give us the horsepower we want. As the fastest stock production cars continue to get even faster, the NHRA and IHRA will need to revise the rules to give owners of these stock cars, like mine, a safe place to race.

In part two next month, I’ll be sharing the techniques I’ve learned for Ranger-style max acceleration through 550-plus passes at the dragstrip.

John “Ranger” Armstrong is producing a DVD on the aforementioned techniques for maximum acceleration in Corvettes. Scheduled for release the fourth quarter of 2007 via his web site (www.rangeracceleration.com), the DVD is intended to help Corvette owners get the most from their cars in a straight line, on the street and at the dragstrip.

Photo Gallery: Corvette Performance Driving Techniques - Corvette Fever Magazine

Over the years, we’ve done quite a few interior restorations with pleasing results. Then, along comes the C4 Corvette with a whole new set of problems to deal with. Sure, while the ‘77 and later sharks started using more plastic than ever before, the C3 plastic material seemed tougher than the C4 interior pieces. Since the flat-dash C4s are approaching their 20th birthdays, many of their interiors need help.

With all the C4s being cut up for Vette Rod suspensions, you’d think a lot of decent plastic interior pieces would be available. The problem is, almost all of the interior panels are cracked and broken. We’ve dismantled our share of early C4s for Vette Rods, and some pieces are always broken, no matter how nice the car is. A good example is the sill-panel cover on the ‘84-’89 cars, especially on the driver side. How many of these do you see in good shape? Not many.

We’ve tried Super Glue and model cement to stick plastic pieces back together to no avail. Then, a few years ago, a mobile tool supply van rolled in with a plastic welding kit, which we decided to try. We pulled out the directions and were immediately intimidated by the product. While the welding would be relatively easy, the brainteaser was determining which plastic we were working with.

Unfortunately, there are many plastic compounds; some melt and bond together and some just burn. In the instructions were questions such as: Does it smoke or bubble when heat is applied? Included were eight different sticks of plastic compounds to determine what works best. (We eventually discovered that the plastic welding kit worked perfectly for modifications on Optispark distributor caps.)

Another problem was, if the repair was visible inside the car, it was usually hideous. We discovered that both sides of the crack required welding for durable repairs. Subtle tricks might work, including heating the weld spot, then applying vinyl to re-create the grain. Unfortunately, applying heat improperly can make a small concern become a heartbreaker.

While at SEMA last year, we found a plastic repair kit like no other. Tim, from G.T. Motorsports, was repairing broken plastic housings and re-creating broken-off plastic tabs with ease using Plastex. We were intrigued because it appeared he was making plastic right in front of us. Within a few minutes, we were making plastic tabs ourselves.

As Tim explained, the substance is made with tiny plastic beads and a catalyst. The pieces we repaired were stronger than the surrounding plastic. The Plastex repair kits come in clear, black, and white. If you need another color, coloring agents are available. Since Plastex is a true plastic, you don’t need to know the type you’re repairing. The same repair procedure applies to all plastics.

The beads are in powder form and, when the catalyst is applied, it reacts to create plastic and bond to the surrounding material. When the catalyst is first applied, the mixture feels like soft plastic that’s been heated. After the reaction takes place and the repaired piece cools (the chemical reaction causes heat), the Plastex is as hard as the surrounding plastic.

We put one of the kits to the test. The instructions are simple, but your first repair should be on something disposable. To our surprise, the repair kit worked at the shop just like it did at the show.

Using the catalyst and powder takes some finesse, but once you get the hang of it, the sky’s the limit. Give the repair some time to set up, and don’t be in a hurry to put the part back in use. The repaired piece becomes hard when it has finished its chemical reaction, which usually occurs in 15 minutes.

We tested the Plastex kit on a glovebox door that was broken at the plastic hinge, and so far it’s held up to heavy abuse (for testing). If you want to permanently repair the plastic parts in your Corvette, Plastex is the fix. The kits are reasonably priced at $9.95 for small repairs and $24.95 for large. Shop kits for major repairs are also available.

Photo Gallery: C4 Corvette Plastic Repair - Corvette Fever Magazine

Well, spring is in the air and here we are again with another bevy of weekend projects for you and your Corvette. I, for one, have had cabin fever here in New Jersey, and I am raring to get started on some projects that I’ve been planning during the winter months, so why don’t you join me? Nothing listed here is rocket science, and you don’t need an extensive tool collection, either. The main elements are care, patience, and a sincere interest in doing the job right. In addition to making some worthwhile improvements and doing some preventative and appearance maintenance, you get to spend some quality one-on-one time with your Corvette.

Regardless of which of these projects you do on your Corvette, there are a few items that will serve you well. I recommend that you have these on hand: disposable nitrile gloves to keep your paws clean; WD-40 for penetrating rusted fasteners, cleaning paint off your hands, and a plethora of other uses; some aerosol carb and choke cleaner for dissolving and removing grease and engine muck; a razor blade scraper and a utility knife; a workbench; and a stool or bench to sit on. For the projects where you’ll need to elevate your Corvette, a good hydraulic trolley jack, a pair of sturdy jackstands, and a creeper or mat for your back are also items you’ll need.

As far as tools go, you’ll need a basic complement that includes screwdrivers and nutdrivers, wrenches, sockets, and ratchets; ASA standard if you’re working on C1, C2, or C3 Corvettes and metric standard for C4s, C5s, and C6s.

I also highly recommend you have a service manual available for your particular year/model Corvette, as it contains a lot of valuable information such as fluid capacities, electrical measurements, torque specifications, and so on. The best ones are the actual factory service manuals produced by GM and used by Chevrolet service technicians; however, Chilton, Motorbooks, and other publishers also publish excellent service manuals.

Speaking of torque, if you’re doing any projects that are torque-sensitive (e.g., replacing the intake manifold bolts) be sure to look up the specific torque specs for your Corvette in the service manual and use a good torque wrench to tighten the bolts to these specs.

You may also want to consider having a radio, CD player, or iPod to provide some “working” music and bottled water or other non-alcoholic beverages to wet your whistle (definitely lay off the beers until the work is done). I think that pretty well covers all the preliminary stuff, so let’s get started.

Project 1
Stainless Intake Manifold Bolt Replacement
Applicable Years: C1, C2, C3
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Appropriate sockets, torque wrench, wrenches; factory service manual or correct torque specs for your engine year/model; new stainless steel bolts and washers
Time Required: 1-2 hours
Parts Source: www.boltdepot.com, local hardware, fastener supply, or home improvement center

There’s a lot of moisture and humidity in the part of the country where I live, and this makes keeping up with and ahead of rust a constant challenge, especially when it comes to the engine bolts on my Corvettes. I’ve always been a big fan of stainless steel fasteners because they don’t rust and always maintain a nice appearance. I also should mention that I don’t enter my cars in judged shows, so I’m not really concerned about correctness. That being said, I decided to replace all the intake manifold bolts on my ‘67 big-block coupe with spiffy stainless fasteners. This is an easy project to do, but you want to make sure you only remove one bolt at a time, and insert and tighten the stainless replacement to the correct torque before removing the next one. This is done for two reasons: First, it minimizes the chance for any coolant leakage, and second, this won’t create any great disturbance in the overall torque of the manifold so there won’t be any warping.

I ordered the replacement bolts from www.boltdepot.com, but you can also get them from the local fastener supply, a well-stocked hardware store, or a home improvement center such as Home Depot or Lowes. Replacing all the bolts should take about an hour on most models, although it may take a little longer on some (e.g., tri-powers) if there is more plumbing to contend with. It really dresses up the engine, and it eliminates rusty-bolt syndrome for good.

Project 2
Cargo Bay Organizer Installation
Applicable Years: C4, C5
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Drill, 5/64-inch bit, No. 1 Phillips screwdriver
Time Required: 1/2-hour
Parts Source: Mid America Motorworks

I keep a lot of small, miscellaneous stuff in the trunk of our C5 -CDs, a baseball cap, extra sunglasses, a pack of Kleenex, maps, and so on, and this stuff tends to bounce around the trunk while I’m driving. It also creates an unsightly clutter when the trunk is open.

I decided to do something about it, so I procured a C5 Cargo Bay Organizer from Mid America Motorworks (MAM), without realizing at the time that it was meant to be installed in C5 coupes, not convertibles like mine. So when it arrived, I did some quick thinking “outside the box” and realized that by mounting it on the transverse aluminum upper deck support it would not only work just fine, but would also serve as a “separator” to hide (for the most part) the ragtop when it was in the down position (which it is for the entire winter, since we have an auxiliary hardtop that stays on for the colder months).

The installation we’re showing here is basically the same as it would be for a coupe, except the organizer would mount to the rear bulkhead beneath the rear window on a coupe. MAM also supplies bolts, nuts, and washers should you decide to fasten the mounting snaps with these items rather than the supplied screws. Be advised, however, that it may be necessary to remove the panel you are mounting it to should you decide to use the nuts-and-bolts mounting method.

This is another easy project to do, but be sure to measure and mark exactly where you want the snap-mounting holes to be before you drill.

Project 3
Spark Plug Pull & Check
Applicable Years: C1, C2, C3, C4, C5, C6
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Spark plug socket, ratchet, plug boot pliers
Time Required: 1 hour
Parts Source: Favorite Corvette parts/accessory supplier, local auto parts store, or auto department of a mass merchandiser

A spark plug is one of those parts that most folks scarcely give any thought to . . . until their engine starts missing, running rough, or develops some unhealthy symptoms. That’s why it’s a good idea to pull and check your spark plugs at regular intervals-for example, with every third oil change. Checking your plugs is not hard to do, although it’s a tad more difficult on some Corvettes than on others due to plug location, exhaust headers, and/or other obstacles that may make them hard to reach and remove.

Start by pulling the plug wire off at the boot (investing in a pair of plug boot pliers is a good idea to avoid damaging the wires or the boots as they’re made specifically for this purpose). After the plug wire is off, use the ratchet and socket to remove the plug and inspect it. Check the plug to make sure the electrode isn’t burned away, that there’s no cracking of the ceramic body, and that the color of the center electrode looks good (optimally, the electrode should be a tan color). Black indicates the engine is running too rich, thus producing a lot of carbon resulting from fuel that isn’t burning properly, and a whitish color denotes the engine is running too lean. If the plug indicates you’re running either rich or lean, some adjustments should be made to correct the situation and a full tune-up wouldn’t be a bad idea.

If everything looks fine, just replace the plugs and push the plug wire boots on all the way. While the plugs are out of the engine, it’s a good time to replace them with new ones, perhaps an upgraded plug such as the ones from E3 that don’t require any gapping. If you’re replacing your plugs with conventional ones, be sure to gap them correctly according to the specs in your Corvette service manual.

Project 4
Shift console prep & paint
Applicable Years: C2
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Masking tape, spray paint, screwdrivers
Time Required: 4 hours over 2 days
Parts Source: Zip Products

Here’s the original console on the left, and the new, unpainted unit from Zip Products on the right. The shifter diagram, ashtray door, and door sliders have already been removed from the old console.>

The lower shifter console in my ‘67 coupe had seen better days. The paint is peeling off in several places, and it has acquired numerous scratches over the last 41 years, so when I redid my interior, the console was on the “makeover” list as well. Zip Products offers a console either completely finished or unpainted-the only difference is the price, about $160 between the two. So if you’re industrious and want to save some significant change, here’s how to finish the bare console yourself.

Project 5
Voltage Regulator Replacement
Applicable Years: C2, early C3
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Ratchet and sockets or nut drivers
Time Required: 1/2-hour
Parts Source: Corvette Central

Always use a cushioned fender apron when working under the hood of your Corvette to protect against scratches from belt buckles. The replacement voltage regulator is resting on the apron above the old one it will be replacing. The year 1968 was the last year the Corvette was equipped with an external discrete voltage regulator; GM switched to integrated units with the ‘69 model year.>

Replacing the voltage regulator is a very simple procedure on midyears and the ‘68 shark. (Starting with the ‘69 Corvette, GM switched to an internal voltage regulator that was integrated with the alternator).

As always, whenever you’re working on anything that has to do with the electrical system in your Corvette, be sure to disconnect the negative terminal of the battery before you do anything else. This will not only prevent you from getting a nasty shock, it will also prevent any damage to the electrical components as you work with them.

When all of those tasks are done, you can remove the old regulator and install the new one by reversing all the steps.

Project 6
Valve Cover Replacement
Applicable Years: C1, C2, C3
Skill Level: 1 Wrench
Tools Required: Sockets and ratchet, razor scraper, gasket sealant
Time Required: 1-2 hours
Parts Source: Paragon Reproductions

The aftermarket chrome valve covers on my ‘67 big-block looked nice when they were shiny and new, but that was a long, long time ago, and moisture and age have taken their toll. As part of my overall scheme for revitalizing the engine bay on the old warhorse, I sandblasted and refinished the original OEM valve covers (covered in a separate stand-alone article in another issue of CF), and now it was time to install them. A gasket set was procured from Paragon, along with the appropriate grommets and a new, correct black oil filler cap. This is not a difficult project and well worth the hour or two it will take you. These same procedures apply even if you just want to take your old covers off, clean them up, and give them a new coat of paint.

So that should keep you busy for at least a few weekends. Keep watching Corvette Fever for more Corvette weekend projects!CF

Photo Gallery: Chevrolet Corvette Maintenance - Weekend Projects 2008 - Corvette Fever Magazine

Difficulty Index: Experienced - Special Tools Needed

The Tuned Port intake was a vast change from the previous induction systems offered for Corvette. It relied on a simple premise: Increasing the runner length would increase torque.

The L98 Tuned Port took this theory to the limit. With long runners on each side of the plenum that curve around to direct airflow into the main intake housing, the Tuned Port is one of the most recognizable intakes ever made. It worked quite well, too.

Unfortunately, GM was still sending coolant through the intake manifold, so the biggest problem is that the gaskets are showing their age with coolant leaks. Usually, leaks can be seen in the pockets between the head and intake on the rear passenger side of the engine. There are a few more wires or lines running to the intake than there are with a typical carbureted setup in the earlier generations. But with just a bit more information, swapping out the gaskets can be done the same way as any of the sans-electronic small-block predecessors.

With the car timed and tuned, it was ready for another decade and a half of trusty service. Now we can drive it without any coolant leaks, smells, or stains on the driveway. Right. Like it will spend that much time in the driveway!

Photo Gallery: Repairing L98 Tuned Port Intake - Corvette Fever Magazine

Having his taste buds tickled by the stylish curves of a ‘63 split window and the modern angular lines of an ‘89 coupe, Tony Melillo, of Torrance, California, wanted to find something that would satiate his cravings for both modern amenities and classic break-neck speeds akin to that of the big-block years of the Corvette. That led his focus to the ZR1. Legendary in its track prowess and subtle in its body modifications from the standard packaged late-C4s, the ZR1 was exactly what the doctor ordered in Tony’s mind.

Beginning his search for a low mileage and a fresh-from-the-factory coupe in 1993, he would soon learn the logistics would outweigh desire. Priced at $67,000, the standard of the elusive machine’s pristine condition would need to be lowered considerably, in Tony’s view, from what he originally aimed for. It would require nearly a whole year’s dedication, but an unnaturally preserved ‘91 ZR1 with only a total of 9,000 miles and plastic still covering the seats would nearly fall in his lap.

Originally given as a present to the owner’s wife, she could not - nor had much desire to learn how to - drive a stick. Dormant and a reminder of a present unwanted, the owner now merely wanted to offload the eyesore. Asking only $45,000 for the vehicle, Tony feared leaving the ZR1 alone though being $10,000 more than he was prepared to pay. Unsuccessful haggling ended in a stalemate, with both parties left exactly where they began. Six more months ticked by, Tony without the car of his dreams, and the owner stuck with a ZR1 that nobody wanted.

Finally, in October of 1994, Tony caved and called the owner of the ‘91 Polo Green ZR1. While traveling extensively for work, the owner didn’t have the time to sell the Corvette, so it was still for sale, and still flawless. With $35,000 in cash on his person, Tony approached the owner one last time to see if he would take the lowered price. Looking over the banded stacks of $100 bills, the owner cracked and handed over the keys. (For all of you reading along, pay attention! Placing the cash in the owners mind is more powerful than any other bargaining tool.)

The car, which had sat untouched for so long, survived unmolested for only 6 months before Tony felt the potent ZR1 could profit from some minor tweaks. A trip to Corvette Mike out of Anaheim, CA, cracked open the differential and bolted in a 4.02 ratio ring gear and pinion set and tossed in a Borla exhaust system. Sure, the car’s performance improved, but Tony still wasn’t satisfied. Shortly thereafter, the ZR1 was given to Jim Van Dorn at Auto Masters in Palm Desert, CA, for what Tony called, “major surgery.” Installing their “Street Skinner” package, the Merlin Marine-built, Lotus-inspired plant would undergo some serious tooling.

The dual overhead cam cylinder heads would be ported and polished, given a three-angle valve job, port matched to the intake, which too would be port matched, polishing the plenum and the injector housings. Scott Skinner would personally degree the camshafts, while a DRM chip, a 160′ thermostat, 63mm throttle body, K&N open air induction, and Lucas hi-flow injection system would be installed. Once finished, Jim Van Dorn estimated that the Corvette easily pressed out close to 500hp.

Gary Sveko at Performance Paint in Torrance was given the Polo Green ZR1 next and was put in charge of repainting the Corvette to Candy Apple Red. Why? You’ll have to ask Tony next time you see him. But Sveko’s reputation for outstanding quality is renown in California, having painted cars for hot rodders, musclecar guys, collectors, celebrities (re: Bruce Willis and Chuck Norris), and enthusiasts. Once cured and buffed, the ZR1 rolled over to Larry Hofer at TPI Performance in San Diego for some engine polishing and work on the suspension system.

Once the labor was finally over, Tony finally got the Corvette back and almost immediately put it on the show tour. In the past three years, it has garnered three Best Paint awards, three Best of Show Awards, and taken the win in nearly every class it enters. At the Southern California Association Car Show, the newly Candy Apple Red ZR1 has won Best of Show for two consecutive years, and is anticipating future wins. “I’ve always wondered how the original owner would react if he saw this car now,” Tony says. “Maybe I’ll call him and show him the car he once owned and finally have the opportunity to show him how I babied this car from the day I purchased it from him seven years ago.”

Photo Gallery: 1991 Chevy C4 ZR-1 Corvette - Corvette Fever

In the late-’80s, gasoline and fast food hamburgers were relatively cheap, and the then-current Corvette (C4) was relatively expensive. During the intervening years, things have changed dramatically. The price of gasoline and hamburgers has jumped, while the cost of a ‘86-’88 Corvette has plummeted. That’s perfectly understandable because Corvettes of that era are now just under or just over 20 years old, but, hopefully, that’s not the case with the gas or burger you just purchased.

Unlike a hamburger from the same time period, a 20-year-old Corvette still has quite a bit of appeal, especially considering the price at which one can be purchased. But a 20-year-old car-even a Corvette-is still a 20-year-old car, and cost isn’t the only thing that has changed in that time period. Improvements in engine, drivetrain, and electronic-control technology have dramatically altered virtually every aspect of the Corvette driving experience. Editor Alan Colvin and I had discussed the C4-C5 technology gap on several occasions, and during one of those discussions we began speculating about the possibility of combining the low cost of a well-used C4 with the powertrain technology found in a C5.

During a subsequent conversation, Alan said, “We get a lot of e-mails and calls from readers who either own a C4 or would like to buy one, and a lot of them want information about rebuilding or updating the powertrain. They’re concerned about reliability because a lot of these cars have well over 100,000 miles on them.”

Then he said he wanted to move beyond speculating about updating a C4. “Here’s what I’d like you to do,” he said, (notice he used the word you, not we) “see if you can find a C4 at a reasonable price, and then figure out what it would take to install an LS-type engine and a five- or six-speed transmission.” Then he threw in the clincher-”I want to do it all for a total cost of $15,000.”

A few days later, after several hours of searching on the internet and making phone calls, I found exactly what we were looking for-an ‘87 coupe with 140,000-plus miles on the odometer. It wasn’t pretty; there was some body damage, and the interior showed definite evidence of occupation by a person or persons who were inappropriately dimensioned for the confines of a C4 passenger compartment. But the engine and driveline were in good condition (considering the mileage), and, more importantly, the price was right.

For the past few years, the previous owner’s good intentions had been propelling him rapidly along the road to nowhere. His restoration project had more starts and stops than a New York City subway train, and he had finally thrown up his hands and just wanted the car to be gone. We were happy to give him $2,500 to take the car off his hands.

After we had an appropriate project vehicle in hand, we then purchased a 5.3-liter truck/SUV engine to replace the existing, well-worn 350 Tuned Port. Having read that, the first question that probably comes to your mind is, “Why didn’t they get an LS1 or a 6-liter?” The reason is simple-cost. Hundreds of thousands of 5.3-liter-powered trucks have been produced, making the supply of used engines plentiful-and that means cheap. Since Skinflint Colvin had set a total project cost of $15,000, we had to view every upgrade and modification in terms of the potential ROI (return on investment). We paid $700 for a complete 80,000-mile engine, including PCM, wiring harness, all accessories, brackets, and have heard of even better prices for similar packages. (Cost varies considerably depending on locale.) An LS1, LS2, or even a 6.0-liter truck engine goes for considerably more than that.

Aside from cost, a 5.3-liter engine offers another advantage over an LS1 or LS2-a cast-iron block. Any engine with an aluminum block is obviously lighter, and that would call for some type of suspension modification to get the front end back down to standard ride height. Trading iron for iron eliminates that concern. The same would be true of a 6.0-liter iron-block engine, but then the higher cost of that engine rears its ugly head.

With each subsequent discussion, the 5.3-liter engine became more appealing. Its SAE net horsepower rating of 285 is 45 hp more than the original ‘87 engine produced. So a significant performance improvement is at hand after installing a bone-stock 5.3. With a cylinder head clean and a mild cam, net horsepower jumps to well over 300. That represents a lot of horsepower per dollar.

Now that we’re ready to proceed with the project, we’d like your input. If you had a total budget of $15,000, ($11,800 remaining), what components would you choose? Specifically, we’d like you to indicate type and brand of headers, camshaft, intake manifold, clutch/flywheel, shifter, brakes, suspension, wheels, tires, and anything else you care to mention. E-mail your suggestions for our C4orce project car to corvettefever.features@sourceinterlink.com and stop back next month to see how our project is progressing.

Photo Gallery: 1987 Chevrolet Corvette Project Car - Corvette Fever Magazine

Designed after the avian muse for which it was named; the Rondine, or swallow, features a sleek fiberglass skin similar to the aforementioned bird’s characteristic slender streamlined body, with long pointed wings, a stubbed bill, and long tail. Based off of a ‘63 split-window, the Italian-built showcase vehicle crafted by Pininfarina sadly never caught on, and ultimately, slid off into the shadowy annals of historical Corvette obscurity. So ambiguous was the Italian coupe’s account, that many, if not most, Corvette die-hard enthusiasts have never even heard of it.

Like so many show cars, the Rondine barely enjoyed its 15 minutes of fame before critics and coachbuilders lambasted the one-of-four hand-built coupes. The Rondine’s initial unveiling was met with sneers and confusion which would incur the hurried modification that would debut a year later. The two versions of the coupe would still befall dour interest and fail as a limited production American-Italian sportscar. The Rondine, though distinctively Italian in its design was ultimately wholly American with its blistering horsepower emanating from underneath the smooth hood and jet aircraft-inspired gauge pod and interior.

Since the days of Harley Earl, General Motors had enjoyed a fruitful relationship with the Italian carrozzeria, Pininfarina, which continued on until Bill Mitchell took over as chief designer in 1958, succeeding Harley Earl. Corvette enthusiast and historian, Tony Thacker recounts, “It was perhaps as a result of the friendship between Mitchell and Pinin Farina, the founder of the Italian design house, that a ‘63 Sting Ray found its way to Turin’s Valley di Susa for Pininfarina to re-body in any way they wished.”

It would be there that the chassis would undergo a sequence of retro-fitting and redesign. The now-legendary “Mako Shark”-influenced body would be nearly unrecognizably altered to a more angular, razor-edged coupe that utilized one-off taillights, which were little more than “afterthought” reflectors, and bumperettes similar in style to the Sting Ray and a large recessed license plate box and a quick-release race-inspired gas filler door. The front end styling demonstrated a tubular-style grille flanked by low-slung eyelids which electronically rotated to better reveal twin, fixed round headlights.

The high beltline swept around the front of the body, across the doors, dancing up over the simple lock and concealed handle before racing back to form the upper lip of the tail fins. Initially, the Rondine featured a classic Raymond Loewy-inspired roof treatment reminiscent of a ‘53 Studebaker. The notch-back, roll-up window replaced the iconic split window backlight, highlighting a reverse rake, electrically-operated rear window. In this configuration, the Rondine would be unveiled at the Paris auto show in October 1963.

Although stunning and substantially unique from the conventional Corvette from which it was based, the Rondine’s unconventional rear window treatment received enough unfavorable criticism that Pininfarina hurriedly recalled the show car back to his facility and, as evidenced by the color photographs, replaced the rakish backlight with a more slippery wraparound greenhouse. The newly updated Rondine would appear once more, during the Geneva international car show in the next year in 1964 before being retired and sent back to the Italian stable.

But the Rondine’s avant garde styling would not fall on blind eyes. The Italian-sculpted Corvette’s racy tail and sharp lines appear once more, but not on any domestic-built vehicle, but trace queues manifest themselves in the production Fiat 124 Spider in 1966. While the speculation of the Rondine’s DNA appearing in the later Fiat is purely conjecture, the near-forgotten existence of the Pan-Atlantic Corvette is the biggest enigma of them all. Had the Rondine’s fate been different, the potential of a production GM-powered Italian sportscar (similar to Lincoln-Mercury’s DeTomaso Pantera) could have conceivably survived. Oh, what could have been…

Photo Gallery: The Italian-Built Rondine Corvette - Corvette Fever Magazine

Do you believe in second chances? Robert McNerney does. A few years back, he went to the Atlantic City Classic Car Auction in hopes of finding a C1 that he could buy as a weekend driver and occasional show car. “I was looking at ’58s and ’59s, but when I saw this car, the color grabbed my eye right away,” he says from his Mahwah, New Jersey, home. “And the condition-it was impeccable.”

What he’d found was a Fawn Beige Metallic with Ermine White coves ‘61 set to cross the auction block, originally sold in New York, meticulously maintained and in great condition. Unfortunately, when the hammer came down, the auctioneer didn’t point to Robert. “I was outbid on it,” he recalls. “The car went back to the auction the subsequent year, and I bought it off the second owner. He was trying to sell it there, but he didn’t. I’d left my number with him, and he called me, and we ended up making the deal. I wasn’t going to miss it the second time!”

Not only did Robert buy a distinctive-looking C1, but he also bought a late-production car built in July 1961, the last month of model-year-’61 production (per its VIN number and Mike Antonick’s Corvette Black Book) with some fairly rare factory options. There’s the two-tone paint, which-in these colors-was only applied to 358 of the nearly 11,000 ‘61 Corvettes built. Underneath is an RPO 469, highlighted by dual Carter AVS four-barrel carburetors atop the hydraulic-lifter-cammed, 245hp 283-an option which only 1,175 Vettes received that year.

Being a ‘61, there are plenty of “firsts” and “lasts” on the car. It was the first year for the Sting Ray-influenced rear styling with four taillights, a horizontal-pattern grille up front minus the chrome “teeth” that had been a Corvette hallmark, a narrower transmission tunnel atop an aluminum-cased Borg-Warner T-10 four-speed (with an aluminum case for Powerglide on its way for ‘62), and an all-new aluminum crossflow radiator from GM’s Harrison Radiator Division that appeared early in the model run. Also, formerly optional items such as windshield washers, sun shades, a parking-brake warning light, and a temperature-controlled radiator fan were now standard equipment. Meanwhile, 1961 was the last year for the 283 in its five carbureted and fuel-injected versions, as well as for the two-tone paint and wide whitewall tires-replaced, respectively, by the 327 (with one high-output carbureted and one fuelie variation optional), single-color paint, and 1-inch-wide whitewalls.

Robert’s ‘61 now has about 76,000 miles on it, and it’s an eye-grabber everywhere it goes. “It’s unbelievable, the attention,” he says. “You pull up, and you have two, maybe three people asking you about the car.” What’s it like to drive? Robert puts it simply: “It’s pretty powerful!”

When asked if he plans to seek NCRS Top Flight certification for it, Robert replies, “I did have an NCRS judge look at it, and he gave me a breakdown of what I had to do,” he says. “Again, it’s not something that I’m pursuing, but it wouldn’t take very much to do it. I’m just enjoying it at this point.”

That enjoyment includes showing it locally with his son, Ryan. “He loves it, as well. We’ve been to several car shows with it, and we’ve won trophies with it. It’s something we do together.” Does that show-going-and subsequent highway beautification-include trips to events like Corvettes at Carlisle in the future? Robert says that showing at Carlisle isn’t in his plans, for now, and selling it is definitely out of the question. “I have a couple friends who are really into restoring cars, and they’re trying to talk me into selling it, but I told them, ‘I waited too long for this one, I’m not selling it.’” With this late-production ‘61 filled with firsts-and-lasts, who can blame him?

>>> DATA FILE::: ‘61 Chevrolet Corvette
Owned by Robert McNerney, Mahwah, New Jersey
Total ‘61 Corvette production: 10,939
Built: July 1961 at Chevrolet’s St. Louis (MO) Assembly Plant, in the last month of the ‘61 model year production.

>> BODY
Production ‘61 Corvette fiberglass body
Modifications: None
Options: Two-tone paint (RPO 440)
Color: Fawn Beige with Ermine White coves, one of 358 ‘61 Corvettes painted this way
Paint: Original DuPont acrylic lacquer
Top: White convertible top (original), body not equipped for optional hardtop

>> CHASSIS
Production ‘61 Corvette
Modifications: None
Suspension: Front: stock C1 Corvette coil springs and Delco shocks; Rear: stock C1 Corvette leaf springs and Delco shocks
Steering: Original GM/Saginaw Gear recirculating ball, 16:1 ratio, nonpower-assisted
Brakes: Original GM/Chevrolet drum-and-shoe brakes all around, nonpower-assisted
Wheels: Stock 15×5.5-inch steel, with standard chrome full-wheel cover
Tires: Reproductions of original-style 6.70-15 whitewalls (RPO 290) all around (1961 was the last year for OEM “wide band” whitewall tires, industry-wide)

>> ENGINE
Chevrolet overhead-valve V-8, Gen I small-block (RPO 469)
Displacement: 283 ci
Compression: 9.5:1
Induction: Two Carter four-barrel carburetors: Front: Carter 3181S No. 3785554; Rear: Carter 2627S No. 3744004
Camshaft: Stock Chevrolet, hydraulic lifters (per RPO 469)
Block: Stock Chevrolet cast iron, casting No. 3789935
Heads: Stock Chevrolet cast iron, casting No. 3774692
Radiator: Original GM/Harrison crossflow aluminum with aluminum expansion tank and temperature-controlled fan (new for 1961)
Modifications: None, other than factory 2×4 carburetor option and stock finned aluminum valve covers
Horsepower: 245 (Chevrolet factory rating)
Torque: 300 at 3,800 rpm (Chevrolet factory rating)

>> TRANSMISSION
Original Borg-Warner T-10 four-speed manual (RPO 685), with new-for-’61 aluminum case and original shifter with reverse lock-out
Clutch: Original
Rearend: Stock C1 rearend with Posi-traction differential (RPO 675), 3.70:1 rear gear ratio

>> INTERIOR
Original production ‘61 Corvette
New features for ‘61: Narrower transmission tunnel for more interior room. Windshield washers, sun shades, and parking-brake courtesy light made standard for 1961
Seats: Production ‘61 Corvette bucket seats, upholstered in beige vinyl
Gauges: Production ‘61 Corvette, with 0-160 mph speedometer and 0-7,000 rpm tachometer (5,500 rpm redline), plus gauges for fuel level, battery (ammeter), engine temperature, and oil pressure
Sound system: Optional GM Delco signal-seeking pushbutton AM radio (RPO 102)
Other options: Heater (RPO 101)

Photo Gallery: 1961 Chevrolet Corvette - Corvette Fever Magazine

If your shark has been sitting in the garage waiting for you to tackle arestoration, or you recently purchased a ‘74-’82 Corvette and want tomake it roadworthy, you need a plan of attack–a Shark Attack.

Too often, we see our dream shark for sale, realize we’re getting aCorvette at an unbelievable price, and look no further. As wedemonstrated in our last installment, a Corvette buyer is better offgetting the best possible car rather than the cheapest. In thisinstallment, we’ll prove that point and also show you how important theplan of attack is in taking on any project, especially one where overallspending is crucial.

Since our Corvette isn’t a daily driver, we plan to do the partialrestoration in stages. At each stage, we’ll order the parts thoughtfullyso the Corvette won’t be in pieces for long periods of time. This allowsdrive time between the restoration stages, so you look forward to thenext phase. It’s easy to drag out any project or lose interest when it’sin pieces all over the shop.

As stated, we’ll do a partial restoration to create a reliable,comfortable cruising car. To ensure reliability and safety, eachmechanical system must be inspected and restored.

Inspection

Before performing any work, a close inspection of the entire Corvette isimportant, then a complete plan of attack can be established. Assemblinga comprehensive list of all restoration pieces is difficult butworthwhile, because careful planning can save labor and parts costs.

When disassembling components, you’ll usually find surprises that can bequite expensive. At one time, around $200 would cover the surprises, buttoday $500 can go quickly. If you’re working with a tight budget, thisis the time to consider where to spend your money. Controlling anyproject is difficult, and other Corvette owners can be helpful in makingyour decisions.

Need Help?

If you don’t have much experience in the area you’re working on, theexperts at Corvette Central can help identify the parts you’ll need. Thecompany assembles kits to help with small items that are sometimesforgotten until you’re in the middle of a job on a Saturday afternoon.

In addition to a catalog of products from a supplier like CorvetteCentral, be sure to have an assembly manual. This will not only help youput the car back together, but will identify missing components orprevious work that was done incorrectly.

Once a comprehensive parts and labor list is compiled, enhancements canbe considered. Corvette Central has an excellent Web site for viewingand ordering parts. Being able to see the parts and compare beforebuying is a huge plus.

Keeping Down The Cost

Because we’re on a budget, the cost of parts is important.Unfortunately, many parts that cost less aren’t the best quality. Don’tlook for the best price; shop for the most reliable parts.

Buy the parts for the area of the car you’re working on at one time.Corvette Central has a start-to-finish plan that can be beneficial in amajor or partial restoration. Many times, suppliers discount largeshipments and help with shipping costs. If you order single partsseparately, the shipping charges will dramatically increase the cost ofyour project.

Cutting Corners Costs More

If you have a shop do the work for you, bringing your own repair partscomes with a set of rules. The shop typically makes a profit from theparts sale, but the profit is lost quickly if a part fails. Mostsuppliers don’t pay labor when a part fails, so the shop must absorb thecost. If a customer supplies the parts, the shop can only guarantee thelabor that was performed.

For most shops, how to charge for labor can be an issue for majorprojects. Charging a flat rate from a labor guide is difficult whenparts must be cleaned and painted before assembly. Flat-rate laborguides are for relatively new vehicles with minor corrosion and grime.If you want the shop to take extra care with your restoration, it cancost quite a bit more.

Discuss your plans and ask how the shop charges for labor. Do they paintthe pieces they’re working on? Do they clean the pieces and apply apreventive coating before they paint? These days, powdercoating costsare in line with good epoxy or urethane paint coating. The problem withpowdercoating is, additional time is required for processing the pieces,but it can be more cost effective than traditional preparation andpainting.

Where To Start? Rear Suspension & Brakes

I’ve performed many mechanical restorations, and the question I’m oftenasked is where to start. The front suspension and steering are best donewith the radiator and shroud removed. So I do all of the rearsuspension, differential, and brakes first. Once they’re removed, theframe can be cleaned and a coat of urethane primer can be applied.

There are a few enhancements that are worth doing to the shark. Urethanesuspension bushings for the front and rear last longer and providepositive suspension control. The downside of using urethane bushings isthey can be noisy at times depending on heat and humidity levels, andthey also create a rougher ride. But in this case, the benefits outweighthe minor concerns. Stainless steel shims will be used for thetrailing-arm toe alignment because the shims allow easy alignment formany years. The steel rear spring will be replaced with a fiberglassspring. The fiberglass composite spring provides a smoother ride and, aswe all know, the shark can be tough on the backside after a long trip.

The brakes on Project Shark were not safe at any speed, so we’ll replacethe stock components with drilled rotors. We’ll use Stainless SteelBrakes calipers at all corners, along with a set of stainless brakehoses and rear-brake-caliper lines.

Ordering The First Parts Online

First we’ll order parts for the rear of our car from Corvette Central’sWeb site. Buying parts online is simpler, and provides the opportunityto create a list using Corvette Central’s ordering system.

Check the parts carefully when they arrive before beginning any work.Make sure they are the correct parts and aren’t damaged.

What’s Next?

The next phase will be the rear suspension, brake, and differentialrestoration work. Once we start on the rear suspension work, we’ll orderthe front suspension parts. Once the suspension and brakes arecompleted, we’ll go for a testdrive to check the condition of the engineand transmission.

The aesthetics of Project Shark will come near the end of the project.We’ll tackle the interior items once we’re sure the car functions safelyand performs at the Corvette level.

We’re satisfied with the exterior, and we’ll deal with any issues whenbudget and necessity dictate.

Conclusion

Our goal with Project Shark Attack is to get you and your shark back onspeaking terms. Maybe you’d love to tackle the project, but need somemotivation. We’ll show you how, on a budget, enjoying your shark can bea reality. Don’t let the naysayers tell you your Corvette isn’t worthinvesting time and money. A review of the classified ads in your areawill give you an idea of what Corvettes are going for. Armed with thatinformation, you’ll realize your ‘74-’82 is clearly a project worthtackling.

Taxes, Tags, & Insurance

What could be worse than completing your project and finding out there’sa problem with the title? Delaying the title or registration work canresult in a few surprises.

* Many states impose a penalty if the title transfer is not done within10 days.

* In some states, the title can be transferred without assigning alicense tag, if you prefer, as long as you sign an affidavit stating thecar will not be driven on any public right-of-way.

* In Florida, a bill of sale is required to reinforce the sale price. Ifthe selling price is lower than the typical Kelley Blue Book price andyou do not have a bill of sale, the state will send the buyer and selleran affidavit, which must be signed and notrized by the buyer and sellerverifying the sale price. If both parties cannot sign the affidavit,a penalty and whatever additional taxes are due will be charged to thebuyer.

I don’t plan to drive the project car for a while, but since it’s titledcorrectly, I can insure it during the partial restoration. My autoinsurance provider has 100,000, 50,000, 100,000 liability, uninsuredmotorist, personal injury protection, and physical damage coverageavailable at a reasonable cost. For approximately $150 a year, theCorvette will be covered from accident damage or inclement weather,based on a stated value of $8,000. If a road test is necessary, I candrive with confidence, although road-test mileage is strictly limited.Don’t forget to increase coverage as the project nears completion.

Photo Gallery: 1979 Chevy Corvette - Restoration Plan - Inspection - Corvette Fever

The front suspension parts are back from the powdercoating shop and theylook great. All parts from Corvette Central are here and ready forassembly.

When the suspension parts came back, we realized we should have lookedcloser at the slag left behind on the front lower control arms. Thewelding slag was powdercoated over and will have to stay. Slag is abyproduct of welding, and red-hot pieces stick to the metal surface.Sandblasting or bead-blasting pieces typically removes it, although achisel is needed for stubborn pieces. Having flawed parts or pieces isunsettling, so we took extra time to remove slag from the front framesection before painting.

We’ve invested a little over $300 in sandblasting and durablepowdercoating of the front and rear suspension and steering components.It was well worth the investment, even if we have to look at tiny bitsof welding slag. In addition to the cost of materials, it can take hoursto remove and prepare components for painting, so the cost of sendingthe work out is comparable. Powdercoating doesn’t protect fromultraviolet rays, which isn’t an issue under the car.

One problem we encountered was loose components on taper-fit areas suchas ball-joint studs in the spindle when powdercoat is left in place. Thepowdercoat is tough, but if there is any movement it will break out ofthe tapered hole, resulting in a loose fit. Most powdercoat facilitiesmask these areas if they’re asked to. The threaded holes should have atap run through the threads to remove any powdercoat that was leftbehind.

We put the same coat of PPG DP90 black urethane primer on the frontframe section as we did on the rear. The primer has a semigloss finishthat was achieved by adding thinner to the urethane mix. We put a coatof paint on all of the pieces to prevent corrosion.

The front suspension bolts were bead-blasted and dipped in DP90 urethanefor protection. We replaced all the Stover lock nuts and applied greaseto the threads during assembly. Stover lock nuts are crimped on one sideto grasp the threads, and they lose retention strength after removal andreplacement.

It’s a good idea to replace the front springs to keep the car level andmake the installation easier. The replacement springs are shorter, andinstallation into the upper spring pocket is easy. It’s also smart touse coated springs to prevent corrosion.

If you use factory-length springs, place the spring into the upperpocket, then push it into the lower spring pocket. Be careful when youpush the spring into position–you can easily pinch a finger. If thelower control arm is raised 3-4 inches from its lowest position, thespring can be pushed into position with two stiff prybars and stay thereas the control arm is lifted.

A spring compressor can be used to install the spring, but it can bedifficult to remove the compressor once the spring is in place. We don’tuse one for this reason, but it may be necessary your first time. Youmay have to put the spring in a few times to figure out the compressor.Rental spring compressors are available at most auto parts supplystores. When used properly, spring compressors are safe, but don’t tryany shortcuts.

Note the position of the drain hole in the lower control arm springpocket. Place the end of the spring within 1/4 inch of the drain hole.If the spring is out of place, it can cause squeaks. Once the spring isin place, look with a flashlight at the upper spring seat and make sureit’s seated properly. After the spring is in, the rest of the work isstraightforward.

Once the spindle is installed on the ball joints, the ball-joint castlenuts should be torqued, then tightened just enough to install the cotterpin. The castle nut should never be loosened to install the cotter pin.The same procedure is used on all tapered seat components (tie-rod endsand such).

We used new tie-rod ends and heavy duty sleeves with new clamps. Wetried to anticipate where the tie-rod sleeves would be on the tie-rodends before painting to allow partial paint on the threads. Watchingwhere the paint ends and applying grease to the threads allows easyadjustment of the tie-rods during alignment.

We have a good local alignment shop, but if your car has rusty hardwareand you expect an extraordinary job, disappointment is inevitable.Whether you’re doing a total rebuild or a part replacement, make surethe components are at least adjustable.

Before we send any car to the alignment shop after a major suspensionoverhaul, we get the alignment somewhat close. Previously, when we werewrapping up the rear suspension, we showed how to do a preliminaryalignment. The same procedures apply to the front end. It’s a good ideato let the car sit a few days to allow the new springs to settle. Anyride height changes over an inch affect alignment.

We dropped the front end approximately 11/2 inches from the stockposition, which keeps the steering geometry correct. If you go beyond 2inches when lowering, steering geometry is affected and high-speedcornering capabilities will be diminished.

Now that all the pieces are in place, the brakes are next. We’re leaningtoward the Stainless Steel Brakes calipers, available from CorvetteCentral. So far, we’ve been cautious with funds. We have someperformance handling components with a mix of many original pieces. Wewant to keep fiscal control of the project, but some things just makesense. The new, lightweight brake calipers will eliminate futureproblems.

While the brakes are in the works, it’s time to consider what we shoulddo with the engine. We have a few ‘87-’90 Corvette L98 engine coresavailable that could become 383 ci. The thought is to build the 383, doa moderate porting job on the aluminum cylinder heads, then let itbreathe through a Holley 900-cfm throttle-body fuel-injection unit. Wealready have a Keisler-engineered Tremec five-speed to replace the tiredoriginal four-speed. The goal is high torque with light fuel usage, so amild cam will be used.

The other possibility is a GMPP ZZ4 crate engine with the Holley TBIunit. Either way, there are decisions to be made. Many times, spendingthe most money does make the best project car. Hopefully, we can takethe Corvette Central Project Shark Attack on a test ride shortly and letthe public see it in action.

Front suspension torque specifications

Upper-control-arm ball-joint nut: 50 lb-ft

Upper-control-arm shaft to frame: 50 lb-ft

Upper-control-arm shaft-end bolt: 60 lb-ft

Lower-control-arm ball-joint nut: 80 lb-ft

Lower-control-arm shaft to frame rear nut: 95 lb-ft

Lower-control-arm shaft to frame front bolt: 70 lb-ft

Lower-control-arm shaft-end bolt: 70 lb-ft

Steering arm to spindle nut: 70 lb-ft

Upper dust-shield-plate bolt: 90 lb-ft

Tie-rod-end nut: 37 lb-ft

Power steering cylinder to relay rod: 45 lb-ft

Idler arm to frame: 30 lb-ft

Idler arm to relay rod: 35 lb-ft

Photo Gallery: 1979 Chevy Corvette - Front Suspension Assembly - Corvette Fever

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Photo Gallery: Corvette Fever 2002 Preview - Corvette Fever Magazine

Now the fun begins. All of the subassemblies are complete and ready toinstall onto the frame. The frame was cleaned thoroughly with xylenesolvent to remove grease and oil. Using xylene for cleaning can bedangerous; use it only in a well-ventilated area with no open flamepresent. We used a 3-inch orbital-style sander to remove minor surfacerust. Fortunately, there was no rust pitting on the frame.

Once the frame was clean, we applied Ospho rust preventative, which isgood for stopping rust and prepping paint. It can be applied with abrush or cloth, but don’t leave any liquid. Rings or drips from rustpreservatives are almost impossible to remove. After applying thepreservative to the entire area, use a cloth to wipe off the excess.

Once the frame was prepped, we applied a coat of PPG DP90LF epoxysemigloss black primer to the frame. Add thinner to the epoxy primer forbetter flow and control of the semigloss sheen. The epoxy primerprovides durable protection without a topcoat.

The traili